The Chanakya School of Craft has made a landmark debut at the 15th edition of the India Art Fair in New Delhi, effectively dissolving the barriers between art and craft. Occupying three pavilions, the school’s displays personify the spirit of creativity, while also seemingly erasing geographic divisions.
The creative force behind the school, Karishma Swali, has also contributed to the luxury bridal brand Jade and the contemporary line Moonray, besides her remarkable collaboration with Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri for the Fall 2023 couture show in Mumbai last year. Booth I01 at the fair is a canvas for six works from the Belong series, crafted by Swali and her team, showcasing four large-scale handcrafted textile pieces and two sculptures. Complementing these are two pieces developed in partnership with French contemporary artist Eva Jospin, with three more exhibited at Galleria Continua’s booth E04.
In what seems to be a nod to international collaboration, The Chanakya School of Craft joined forces with The French Institute in India, the Basu Foundation and Galerie Lelong Paris to present three artworks by French-Cameroonian visual artist Barthélémy Toguo at Villa Swagatam’s booth L02. Swali emphasizes that the intent behind these showcases is to underline the profound message of interconnectedness and celebrate the role of craft in conserving cultural heritage.
The Belong series is an ode to the transformative essence of nature, delving deep into the perpetual bond shared between humans and the natural environment. “We combined interdisciplinary methods to bridge the real and the metaphysical realms. Artisans craft each piece with devotion, layering hand-spun yarns and employing needlepoint techniques such as couching, bullion knots, and stem stitch. We also created hand-molded soft sculptures using bamboo, papier-mâché, and jute, honoring the resilient nature of femininity,” Swali articulates.
Within the series, one piece, Belong II, 2023, commands special attention with its 335 x 213 centimeter stature. Its complex arrangement of handwoven silk, organza, khadi, jute and linen captures the thematic core and invites reflection on human-nature synergy. Taking up to 18,000 hours to create, a collective of female graduates and master artisans from the Chanakya School of Craft invested nearly eight months in bringing the series to fruition.
The school’s history with Eva Jospin, renowned for her mystical cardboard forest installations, has culminated in unique art pieces that illustrate the natural world’s beauty and diversity. Embellished with over 150 different embroidery techniques and upwards of 400 shades of organic silk, linen, cotton, and jute threads, these artworks resonate with Chanakya’s dedication to craftsmanship.
Additionally, in pursuit of fostering cultural exchange, the French Institute in India’s Villa Swagatam residency program, spearheaded by the Basu Foundation and Galerie Lelong & Co., unveiled Water Matters by Barthélémy, an installation encapsulating the significance of water. The work depicts a five-meter-long embroidered tableau, presenting an individual interacting with water amidst numerous engraved bottles sourced globally. These interdisciplinary pieces are crafted utilizing raw threads and subtle needlework, like back stitch and micro-French knots, to mimic an ink spread akin to traditional painting.
Swali lauds the collaborative efforts with Barthélémy, Galleria Continua, and Jospin for underpinning the series’ multifaceted nature and for transcending borders, capturing diverse worldviews to cultivate a comprehensive and profound artistic immersion.
This exquisite amalgam of art and craft, an homage to traditional techniques and modern aesthetics, will enchant fair-goers until February 4, offering a glimpse into a world where every thread and stitch tells a story of our connected fabric.