A Tapestry of Cultures: Indo-French Embroidery Exhibition at Alliance Française de Madras


At first thought, the connection between the subdued elegance of French culture and the vivacious spirit of Indian tradition may not be immediately apparent. However, upon examination, one discovers striking parallels, particularly in the realm of artisanal textiles. The French and Indians share a rich heritage in embroidery, an art form deeply rooted in the legacy and cultural pride of both countries.

At the forefront of bringing this shared tradition to light is master embroiderer Jean-François Lesage, the visionary behind Vastrakala, an esteemed embroidery atelier rooted in Chennai. In collaboration with the Alliance Française de Madras, Lesage presents “Threads of Time,” an exquisite retrospective highlighting the artistry of Lesage interiors and their handcrafted embroidery mastery.

The scene is set as two skilled artisans meticulously weave the “Wings of a Dragonfly,” setting the stage for the grand opening. Lise Talbot Barré, the Consul-General of France in Puducherry and Chennai, inaugurates the exhibit, emphasizing the Alliance Française’s earnest mission to foster cultural communion through the universal language of art.

Vastrakala, initially established to merge embroidery into interior design, soon burgeoned into fashion embroidery, joining forces with the prestigious Lesage Paris, a beacon of haute couture craftsmanship. Vastrakala co-founder Malavika Shivakumar recalls the serendipitous discovery by their principal partner, Lesage, of a quaint workshop in Benares that mirrored the embroidery techniques of his family’s Parisian ateliers. This chance encounter sowed the initial seeds for what would grow into a strong cross-cultural collaboration. Now, Vastrakala is a proud employer of over 300 local artisans, preserving and advancing the tradition.

The “Threads of Time” journey traverses through a spectrum of embroidery styles, from timeless classics to contemporary innovations. The exhibit’s centerpiece, “Light and Gold,” is a gold zari-embroidered forest of bamboo that, under the light, shimmers in varying metallic gold tones, a piece that captures the viewer’s awe and admiration.

Featured within the exposition are photographs of the OOPS chairs designed in 2018 by French designer Pierre Yovanovitch. These chairs, adorned with male and female faces, are tributes to French cinema legends Catherine Deneuve and Gérard Depardieu.

As Lesage reflects upon the heritage of his company and the perennial nature of embroidery in both India and France, he highlights the intent behind the exhibit to illustrate the pivotal moments of Vastrakala’s presence in India. He asserts that the cultural bridge, constructed on the foundation of exquisite needlework, stands as a testament to the soft power connecting two distant lands.

The mastery involved in creating custom interior decor is expressed through Lesage’s voice as he identifies first and foremost as a craftsman, a title he believes encompasses the dedication and personal investment given to projects for monumental clients like the Rashtrapati Bhavan and the Palace of Versailles.

A piece named “Chandigarh,” crafted in 2022, visually articulates the dynamic evolution of embroidery over the past three-quarters of a century utilizing diverse techniques. The work stands as a symbolic representation of the craft’s adaptability and growth.

An additional collaborative venture displayed is the “Madame Cristal” project with the decorator duo Biehler-Graveleine. The project reimagines the Tarot of Marseille, set within a grand embroidered salon evoking the mystique and intimate nature of Madame Cristal’s fortune-telling escapades.

Visitors can immerse themselves in the “Threads of Time” at the Alliance Française de Madras until April 15, allowing a glimpse into a narrative woven through the delicate interaction of threads and needles, celebrating a shared Franco-Indian legacy.

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